Serendipity often finds its way through the cracks of misfortune. When a strike led to the closure of Frankfurt Airport and forced us to remain grounded, what seemed like an inconvenience morphed into an opportunity for discovery. With a day to spare, we set our sights on the Städel Museum, eager for a dose of inspiration to soothe our frazzled nerves.
Entering the Städel Museum is akin to stepping into a vast, living anthology of human creativity. Founded in 1815 by Johann Friedrich Städel, this institution transcends the mere role of a museum. It is a dynamic space where history, art, and self-reflection intertwine, creating a rich tapestry that spans 700 years.
Our exploration began with the contemporary collection, where Anselm Kiefer's works immediately captured our attention. Kiefer, a German painter renowned for his deep engagement with politics, history, and the history of ideas, expands the traditional boundaries of painting. His works are not confined to mere pigment on canvas; they are layered with materials like hair, straw, and loam, adding texture and complexity.
One of his pieces, inspired by the Greek myth of Jason, the Argonauts, and the Golden Fleece, stood out. Here, Kiefer doesn't just illustrate the myth; he infuses it with present-day elements, creating a bridge between past and present. A dress in the center references Medea's poisoned bridal gown, while scattered teeth symbolize the dragon's teeth Jason sowed, sprouting armed warriors he had to defeat. This work defies straightforward explanation, inviting viewers to interpret it through personal associations.
Among Kiefer's masterpieces, "Wege der Weltweisheit: die Hermanns-Schlacht" (Ways of World Wisdom: The Battle of the Teutoburg Forest, 1978) was particularly compelling.
This monumental collage, part of a series created between 1976 and 1980, and revisited in 1993, comprises acrylic and shellac over woodcuts printed from 18 blocks on wove paper. The prints, glued together in an overlapping fashion and mounted on screen cloth, depict seventeen figures from German history and culture. Hermann the Cheruscan, linked to the battle that named the series, is among them. Kiefer's technique, combining printmaking and drawing, and layering woodcuts with shellac and dark acrylic paint, results in a piece that is both visually and emotionally profound.
As if Kiefer's works weren't enough to leave us in awe, we stumbled upon two rare artworks by Francis Bacon, further elevating our visit.
Bacon's ability to capture raw human emotion is unparalleled, and these pieces were no exception. One particularly striking painting featured a naked, screaming woman confined within a perspective-distorted space. Bacon drew inspiration from a harrowing scene in Sergei Eisenstein’s film ‘Battleship Potemkin,’ which depicts an attack on civilians in Odessa in 1905.
Stripping away the narrative context, Bacon transforms the figure into a universal symbol of suffering. The glazing of the canvas, integral to Bacon's artistic concept, creates a reflective surface that confronts the viewer with their own image, yet simultaneously distances them from the visceral agony depicted.
This duality, of intimacy and separation, heightens the emotional impact, leaving a lasting impression on the psyche.
The Städel Museum's collection spans from the profound faith of the Middle Ages to the human-centric art of the Renaissance, the emotional depth of the Baroque period, and the complexities of Classical Modernism. Each gallery unfolds like a chapter in a grand narrative, inviting visitors to traverse through epochs of artistic evolution. The museum also houses a rich collection of drawings, prints, and photographs, showcasing the delicate artistry on paper and the transformative journey of photography from a mere documentary medium to a powerful art form.
More than a mere repository of art, the Städel Museum serves as a mirror reflecting our own journeys. As we wandered through its halls, we found ourselves contemplating not just the artworks, but our own lives. Who are we? Where do we come from? Where are we going? These timeless questions echoed through the museum, encouraging introspection and engagement.
In the end, what began as a stressful day marooned in Frankfurt transformed into a journey of artistic discovery and self-reflection. The Städel Museum, with its rich history and diverse collection, offered us a sanctuary of beauty and thought. As we stepped back into the bustling streets of Frankfurt, we carried with us not just memories of extraordinary artworks but a renewed sense of wonder and a deeper understanding of ourselves.
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Words by AW.
Photos courtesy of Städel Museum.