Ah, Chicago! The Windy City, where skyscrapers stretch like eager fingers into the Midwestern sky, jazz seeps from old brick walls, and history clings to every corner like a well-worn coat. Once the land of notorious bootleggers and secret backroom hooch joints, Chicago has always been a place that knows how to keep a few secrets—and pour a stiff drink. These days, however, the clandestine spirit of Prohibition-era swill has given way to something a little more refined, thanks to a small but mighty distillery with an eye for the unusual: KOVAL.
KOVAL isn’t just any whiskey maker. This is a distillery that takes the rulebook, flips it upside down, and maybe even tosses it in Lake Michigan for good measure. Founded in 2008 by husband-and-wife duo Dr. Robert Birnecker and Dr. Sonat Birnecker Hart, KOVAL was the first legal distillery to open in Chicago since the mid-1800s. In a town that once kept its whiskey underground (literally), KOVAL took the bold step of putting it on proud display. Their name means "blacksmith" in several Eastern European languages, but in Yiddish, it carries an extra spark—someone who "forges ahead." And KOVAL has been forging ahead with finesse, proving that whiskey can be both playful and profound, like a jazz solo that starts with a wink but finishes with a flourish.
KOVAL’s line-up is anything but ordinary. Millet in whiskey? That’s right. While most distillers would scoff at the idea, KOVAL embraces it with open arms. This unlikely grain, usually found in birdseed, becomes the star of the show in KOVAL’s hands, giving their spirits a distinct personality—a little sweet, a little spicy, and always interesting. Alongside their straight Millet whiskey, KOVAL serves up a robust 100% Rye, a silky oat whiskey, and a complex four-grain blend, all straight from individual barrels. Each bottle is like a little snowflake, unique and full of surprises, because with KOVAL, no two sips are quite the same.
Take their Bourbon, for instance. A corn-millet blend that glows like a sunset in a glass, this whiskey saunters in with tropical fruit and honey on the nose—a greeting as warm as a Midwestern summer. But don't get too comfortable, because just as you're settling in, a peppery kick hits your palate, turning sweet into savory with the kind of smooth confidence that could charm a Chicago bluesman. The flavors unfold in layers, like a well-worn novel, finishing with a delicate, almost ethereal hint of lighter Irish malts. It’s a bourbon that keeps you guessing, a glass that invites conversation as much as it demands admiration.
And then there’s the Millet. Imagine opening a spice cabinet and taking a deep breath—that’s the kind of punch this whiskey packs on the nose. KOVAL ages it in freshly torrefied oak barrels, which adds a bold, toasty flavor that’s as comforting as it is surprising. On the palate, it’s a dance of citrus, berries, and rye, a whirlwind of flavors that tickle and tease before crescendoing with a cinnamon-laden finish. A dash of eucalyptus rounds things off with a touch of mystery, leaving you to wonder if you’ve just had a taste of the familiar or a flirtation with something altogether new.
The Rye?
Oh, it’s as complex as Chicago itself. Bread and spice lead the way, calling to mind the city’s hearty soul, while notes of berries and dark fruits drift in like the first notes of a saxophone echoing down a narrow street. It’s the balance of sweetness and spice that KOVAL seems to master, walking that fine line like a tightrope artist on the 94th floor of the Hancock. The finish is long and lingering, leaving you with a taste that’s both comforting and curiously addictive—a bit like the city itself.
But there’s more to KOVAL than the liquid gold in their bottles. With PhDs in government and academia, Sonat and Robert swapped lab coats and lecture halls for grain sacks and copper stills, bringing a scholar’s precision and an artist’s passion to their craft. They didn’t just start a distillery; they created an ethos. Every bottle of KOVAL is crafted with organic, non-GMO grains sourced from Midwest farms. They’re sticklers for quality, using only the purest water from Lake Michigan, filtered through natural charcoal. And their barrels? Handcrafted American oak from Minnesota, used only once to ensure that each whiskey extracts every ounce of flavor from the wood. It’s a process as meticulous as it is magical—a "grain-to-bottle" philosophy that takes farm-to-table to a whole new level.
But wait, there’s more. KOVAL’s founders aren’t content just to make exceptional spirits—they’re on a mission to spread the gospel of craft distilling. Through consulting with Kothe Distilling Technologies, they’ve helped set up hundreds of new distilleries around the world, ushering in a new wave of independent hooch slingers. They’ve become ambassadors for the art of craft spirits, showing the world that whiskey doesn’t have to be mass-produced to be magnificent.
So, next time you find yourself longing for the windy streets of Chicago, maybe duck into a cozy corner with a bottle of KOVAL. Pour yourself a glass of that Millet or Rye, and taste the city’s soul—spicy, sweet, a little rebellious, and a lot refined. Like Chicago itself, KOVAL’s whiskey isn’t afraid to take risks, defy conventions, and leave a lasting impression. And in a world that often feels a bit too predictable, that’s a sip worth savoring.
---
Words by AW.
Photo courtesy of Koval.