COMME des GARÇONS HOMME x New Balance: A Futuristic Ode to the 2000s Running Era.

Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025 was a stage for the unexpected, a playground where the avant-garde met the timeless. Among the sea of bold statements and experimental designs, COMME des GARÇONS HOMME (CDGH) quietly unveiled a collaboration that spoke volumes without uttering a word. The brand, known for its subversive approach to fashion, joined forces with New Balance to reimagine the 509 silhouette, a shoe inspired by the running aesthetics of the 2000s.

The collaboration, though not paraded on the runway, was a whispered revelation in CDGH’s presentation—a subtle yet powerful nod to the brand’s evolving vision for footwear. This partnership is not CDGH’s first foray into the world of sneaker collaborations, having previously worked with giants like Nike and ASICS. However, the New Balance 509 project feels different. It’s a refined, almost surgical reimagining of what a sneaker can be.

The Legacy of COMME des GARÇONS HOMME

Founded by Rei Kawakubo in 1969, COMME des GARÇONS has long been a disruptor in the fashion world. Known for its deconstructed designs, asymmetrical cuts, and avant-garde aesthetics, the brand has consistently challenged traditional notions of beauty and functionality. CDGH, the menswear line, carries forward this ethos, blending high fashion with streetwear influences. Over the years, CDGH has become synonymous with collaborations that push creative boundaries, from its iconic partnerships with Nike’s Air Max to its unexpected team-ups with brands like Converse and ASICS.

New Balance’s Resurgence in Fashion

New Balance, a brand historically rooted in performance and comfort, has experienced a renaissance in recent years. Once seen as the go-to shoe for dads and marathon runners, New Balance has successfully repositioned itself as a fashion-forward label. Collaborations with designers like Aimé Leon Dore, Jjjjound, and Salehe Bembury have elevated the brand’s status, making it a favorite among sneakerheads and style enthusiasts alike. The 509 silhouette, introduced in Fall/Winter 2024, is part of New Balance’s strategy to tap into the nostalgia of early 2000s running shoes while maintaining a modern edge.

The 509 Silhouette: A Nod to the 2000s

The New Balance 509 is a relatively new model, but its design draws heavily from the brand’s archives. Inspired by the running shoes of the 2000s, the 509 features a chunky yet streamlined profile, combining retro aesthetics with contemporary comfort. Its debut in 2024 was met with enthusiasm, as it tapped into the growing trend of Y2K-inspired fashion.

The silhouette’s versatility makes it an ideal canvas for collaboration, allowing designers to reinterpret its classic lines while staying true to its performance roots.

CDGH’s Vision: Deconstruction and Refinement

For this collaboration, CDGH took the 509 and stripped it down to its core. The synthetic leather upper, available in white and grey, is sleek and minimalist, a departure from the bulkier designs often associated with retro running shoes. CDGH’s signature deconstructive approach is evident in the removal of certain upper panels, creating a lighter, more refined silhouette.

This design choice not only enhances the shoe’s aesthetic appeal but also aligns with CDGH’s philosophy of challenging conventional forms.

The rubber outsoles provide a sturdy foundation, ensuring that the shoes are as functional as they are stylish. Additionally, the collaboration includes customized shoe boxes, a detail that underscores CDGH’s commitment to creating a holistic, immersive experience.

A Collaboration That Transcends Trends

Set to launch in late 2025, the COMME des GARÇONS HOMME x New Balance 509 is more than just a sneaker—it’s a statement. It’s a reminder that collaboration, when done right, can transcend trends and create something truly timeless. It’s a love letter to the 2000s, reimagined through the lens of CDGH’s avant-garde sensibilities.

As we eagerly await the release, one thing is clear: this collaboration is not just about footwear. It’s about pushing boundaries, challenging conventions, and redefining what it means to move forward while staying rooted in the past. In the hands of COMME des GARÇONS HOMME and New Balance, the 509 is no longer just a shoe—it’s a symbol of where we’ve been and where we’re going.

The Bigger Picture

This collaboration also reflects the growing intersection of fashion and sportswear, a trend that has dominated the industry for the past decade. Brands like New Balance have successfully bridged the gap between performance and style, while designers like Rei Kawakubo continue to challenge the status quo. Together, they create products that resonate with a diverse audience, from fashion insiders to everyday consumers.

The COMME des GARÇONS HOMME x New Balance 509 is a testament to the power of collaboration. It’s a fusion of heritage and innovation, a celebration of the past and a glimpse into the future. And as the lines between fashion, sportswear, and art continue to blur, partnerships like this remind us that the possibilities are endless.

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Words by AW.

Photos courtesy of Comme des Garçons & New Balance.