LOST CLOUD: UNDERCOVER × nonnative Drift into a Fictional Ethnosphere.

Fashion thrives on duality - the tension between structure and fluidity, history and reinvention, function and fantasy. The UNDERCOVER × nonnative "Lost Cloud" 2025 SS collection is a dialogue between these contradictions, manifesting in ethereal silhouettes grounded in utility. Here, clothing becomes a vessel for storytelling, threading cultural mirages into tangible form. A collaboration that unites UNDERCOVER’s avant-garde narratives with nonnative’s pragmatic craftsmanship, "Lost Cloud" suspends itself in a fictional ethnosphere - a tribe that never was, yet feels strangely familiar.

The Alchemy of Two Distinct Legacies

Both UNDERCOVER and nonnative have spent decades reshaping the lexicon of Japanese fashion, albeit from different vantage points.

• UNDERCOVER, led by Jun Takahashi, has long been a cipher of the unpredictable -melding punk subversion with haute couture sensibilities. From its anarchic beginnings in the Harajuku underground to its cerebral Parisian runway presentations, UNDERCOVER bends the edges of reality, questioning the very fabric of normality.

  
  

• nonnative, helmed by Takayuki Fujii, operates with a different kind of philosophy -rooted in everyday wearability yet informed by global nomadism. Its pieces embody functionality and quiet luxury, often inspired by workwear, military garments, and urban exploration.

  
  

Together, these brands form an alliance where UNDERCOVER’s narrative ingenuity meets nonnative’s refined practicality - a union akin to blending surrealism with industrial design.

GRAMICCI Pants & rig Sandals: Modern Relics of a Mythical Tribe

At the heart of "Lost Cloud" are GRAMICCI’s Climber Easy Pants and Walker Easy Shorts, sculpted from premium European linen, dyed meticulously in small Japanese workshops. The linen breathes with an almost mystical softness, as if whispering stories of ancient migrations and sun-drenched landscapes.

The designs retain GRAMICCI’s signature gusseted crotch and webbing belts, while nonnative’s tailoring ensures a modern fit - slim yet effortless, structured yet unrestrictive.

The result? A paradox of movement and stillness, much like the drifting clouds from which the collection takes its name.

Paired with the updated rig KAMBA sandals, adorned with studded straps that echo a nomadic resilience, the collection achieves a sense of transience - clothing that feels as though it has wandered through time, picking up echoes of lost civilizations along the way.

Fashion as a Dreamlike Expedition

The "Lost Cloud" collection is not about history - it is about imagined pasts and possible futures. The garments evoke a sense of displacement, as though their wearers are travelers between dimensions, cloaked in the artifacts of a world that exists only in myth. This is a collection for those who appreciate the nuanced intersection of the poetic and the pragmatic, for those who recognize that clothing, at its best, is both armor and art.

Releasing on March 29, 2025, at UNDERCOVER and nonnative stores, "Lost Cloud" is more than a seasonal offering - it is a fleeting mirage, waiting to be caught before it disappears into the horizon.

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Words by AW.

Photos courtesy of nonnative.