Every great whisky tells a story - not just in its notes and nuances, but in the land, hands, and vision that shape it. Some whiskies unfold like an ancient sonnet, measured and melodic. Others, like Pōkeno, take the form of an epic - one of discovery, defiance, and the relentless pursuit of perfection.
Founded by Matt Johns, a whisky veteran whose journey has taken him from the storied distilleries of Scotland and France to the wild, fertile landscapes of New Zealand, Pōkeno Whisky is more than just a distillery - it is a statement. Here, beneath the Southern Cross, whisky isn’t just made; it is cultivated. From the volcanic spring waters that flow beneath the distillery to the golden barley sweetened by the island’s crisp air, every element conspires to create something singular, something bold.
If Scotland is whisky’s ancestral homeland and Japan its philosopher, then New Zealand may well be its frontier - a place where tradition meets reinvention. In the heart of the North Island, where the humid, subtropical climate quickens the dance between spirit and cask, Pōkeno listens carefully to what the barrels whisper, striking a delicate balance between time and transformation.
Our intrigue with Pōkeno began with Origin, a whisky that feels like an invitation into this bold new world—one where craft and terroir entwine seamlessly.
In its essence, Pōkeno Origin is a journey in a glass, a slow ascent into the mist-cloaked hills of New Zealand’s Waikato region.
Aged exclusively in first-fill bourbon casks, it doesn’t just celebrate craftsmanship; it captures a sense of place, bottling the purity of its provenance with every drop.
The first inhale is a honeyed sonnet, a slow crescendo of butterscotch, caramel-drizzled citrus, and warm vanilla custard. There’s a brightness here - zested orange and candied lemon - but it’s tempered by a deeper, woodsy spice, like the scent of aged books and sunlit timber.
As the whisky breathes, a whisper of spiced fudge and brown sugar-dusted shortbread emerges, curling at the edges like the smoke of a dying fire. It’s an aroma that lingers like nostalgia, warming the senses before the first sip even touches the lips.
Pōkeno Origin is as smooth as silk yet structured like an architect’s dream—each layer meticulously placed to support the next. Butterscotch melts into cinnamon warmth, followed by a procession of vanilla bean, charred oak, and golden treacle. The bourbon casks lend a velvety elegance, wrapping the whisky in a richness that feels like dipping a silver spoon into crème brûlée, cracking the caramelized top to reveal the custard beneath.
Then comes the unexpected—a flicker of Black Forest gateau, dark cherries bathed in cocoa, a touch of nutmeg and crushed clove that adds a shadow to all that sweetness. It is a whisky that doesn’t rush, unfurling with the grace of a waltz in a dimly lit ballroom, where time slows and every movement is deliberate.
As the final notes fade, the warmth remains - a peppery encore wrapped in burnt sugar and spiced oak. It leaves behind a delicate hum of cocoa nibs, orange zest, and a final kiss of honey, like the last rays of sunlight sinking below the horizon.
A Conversation with Matt Johns: The Vision Behind the Whisky
Pōkeno Origin was our gateway into this new world of whisky, but the story behind it is just as compelling as the dram itself. We sat down with Matt Johns to explore the alchemy of place and process, the rhythm of maturation in New Zealand’s climate, and what it means to craft a whisky that does not challenge legacy, but instead builds one of its own.
Every great whisky has an origin story - one that lingers on the palate long after the final sip. If Pokēno Whisky were a tale, would it be an epic, a sonnet, or a fireside fable whispered under the Southern Cross?
Matt Johns: I would say that Pokeno is an epic, the story of a journey of adventure, from the UK and France to New Zealand – the start of a family legacy, the creation of an industry, the battle to build a reputation for New Zealand whisky in the global market.
New Zealand’s breathtaking landscapes have inspired poets, filmmakers, and adventurers.
How have its rolling green valleys, crisp alpine air, and untamed spirit found their way into your casks?
Matt Johns: We are extremely proud to be crafting a New Zealand single malt whisky, one that is defined by both our culture and our climate. Using only New Zealand ingredients, our single malt then benefits from the sub tropical climate of the North Island of New Zealand, which accelerates the maturation and helps develop the wonderful fruity notes of our whiskies.
They say whisky is a conversation between time, oak, and patience. What does Pokēno whisper to its barrels, and what do they whisper back?
Matt Johns: In Aotearoa, with our humid, sub tropical climate, patience is something that we cannot have too much of. WIth an angels share of over 9% per year, it is a careful balance of enough time, but not too much time, some wood, but not too much wood. As distillers we are continuously therefore continuously murmuring to our casks to judge when each barrel has reached perfection.
In a world where whisky has long been the dominion of Scotland, Japan, and Kentucky, Pokēno steps onto the scene like an elegant outsider - bold, assured, yet unassuming. What does it mean to challenge legacy while crafting your own?
Matt Johns: I believe that we are not trying to challenge legacy, but are striving to build our own legend. We all respect the great whiskies that come from the old world, the tradition and the heritage. As one of the New World whiskies however, we are focused on writing our own story, one which is defined by flavour and creativity.
New Zealand is a land of extremes - rugged yet refined, wild yet deliberate. Does this duality find its way into the DNA of Pokēno’s expressions, and if so, how does it manifest in the glass?
Matt Johns: Completely - as mentioned before we are proud to be distilling a whisky which is defined by both our culture and climate. Our climate ensures that our barley is incredibly sweet which helps define our flavours. We take incredible care in every part of our process with no comprise in anything we do – long maturations and slow distillations. Filling only into the finest first fill bourbon we then let our climate take care of the rest. Our single malts are incredibly sweet and fruit forward, a result of all of the above.
If terroir is destiny, what is Pokēno’s fate? How does the unique alchemy of New Zealand’s water, barley, and climate sculpt the whisky’s character?
Matt Johns: Our volcanic spring water, rich in iron and manganese takes 100 years to make its way to the spring below the distillery. This helps define the fruitiness of our spirit. The barley is incredibly sweet thanks to the growing conditions. The sub tropical climate then accelerates the maturation – in Pokeno the angels do not wait.
Whisky isn’t just tasted; it’s experienced. If you could orchestrate the perfect Pokēno moment—a setting, a mood, a soundtrack—what would it be? And what’s in the glass?
Matt Johns: Pokeno Origin for me is the perfect expression of what we are trying to achieve. Incredible sweetness mixes with citrus, grapefruit and tropical fruits for a rich and smooth finish. Our journey is one of discovery, as we take our consumers on a discovery of not only New Zealand Single Malts, but of our country.
The best whisky doesn’t just linger on the tongue; it leaves an imprint on the mind. If Pokēno were to be remembered in a single evocative note - one that defines its soul - what would it be?
Matt Johns: “Dare to be Different” is the phrase that defines us, and Pokeno Single Malt really is “the Spirit of New Zealand”. These are the two phrases that define us.
A great whisky is never truly finished—it evolves in the cask, in the glass, in memory. Where is Pokēno headed next? Are there experimental casks in the wings, unexpected collaborations, or a wildcard that might just rewrite the rulebook?
Matt Johns: Creativity and Innovation define us. We will continue to push the boundary of what is possible, whether it be in our use of native New Zealand timber to build casks in our on site cooperage, working with new and different mash bills, or pushing the boundaries of distillation and maturation. We are continuously striving to perfect our art and bring new experiences to our consumers.
Pōkeno Winter Malt: A Fireside Sonata in Smoke and Spice
Our conversation with Matt Johns was not merely a deep dive into the artistry and experimentation that define the distillery’s ethos but an an invitation into a world where whisky-making is as much about the land as it is about the cask. Winter Malt is perhaps Pokēno's most evocative expression yet - an exploration of how terroir, tradition, and technique converge in a way that feels both timeless and entirely new.
The first inhale is an invitation, carried on the ghostly tendrils of manuka smoke, curling like the final wisps of an extinguished campfire—delicate, lingering, and distinct from the briny iodine punch of Islay peat. Here, the smoke is sweeter, layered with herbal warmth and golden honey, a signature of New Zealand’s indigenous woodlands.
Then, the whisky unfolds like a patisserie at dawn—molten dark sugar clinging to the air, merging with the buttery sweetness of freshly torched crème brûlée.
Rich chocolate caramel slice, vanilla bean, and toffee rise to the surface, their decadence tempered by a glint of heather honey and dried apricot, adding a sunlit brightness to the deeper, darker profile.
Where the nose is inviting, the palate is brooding—textured like aged mahogany, bold as a winter storm.
The first strike is the bittersweet intensity of 85% dark chocolate, commanding attention with a richness that borders on savoury, like biting into a cocoa-dusted truffle. Then, the whisky begins to unravel in waves—creamy fudge melting into nutmeg and roasted cocoa beans, an interplay of depth and silkiness that feels like velvet slipping between fingertips.
Pōkeno’s chocolate-roasted malt adds density - a well-seasoned mocha in a glass - while the toffee malt introduces an undercurrent of golden sweetness, reminiscent of slow-drizzled treacle on warm cinnamon toast. Glimpses of Turkish delight and black cherry flicker briefly, playful contrasts against the whisky’s inherent smokiness.
The 48% ABV ensures a bold yet controlled intensity—enough to ignite the senses without overwhelming the delicate dance of baking spice, burnt sugar, and oaky warmth.
As the whisky fades, the afterglow of manuka smoke returns - soft yet insistent, like the dying coals of a fire refusing to surrender to the night. Toasted cocoa nibs and peppery oak spice linger, while a final whisper of cherry cordial and treacle lends the finish a faint, almost port-like richness.
This isn’t a dram that simply disappears into the dark—it lingers, fading like the last notes of a cello in a dimly lit room.
This is a fireside companion for those who prefer their warmth with a touch of mystery, a whisky that whispers its story rather than shouts it—a slow-burning ballad in a world of fleeting moments.
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Words and questions: AW.
Answers and photos courtesy of Matt Johns / Pokēno Whisky.