For centuries, distilling in Wales was a lost art, as forgotten as the ancient myths of dragons and giants. Whisky-making in this corner of the world had become a relic, a footnote in history, much like an old tome gathering dust on a forgotten shelf. But in the late 1990s, something stirred in the quiet hum of a Hirwaun pub—an idea, as bold and fantastical as a dragon cresting the waves off the Welsh coast. A group of friends, bound by ambition and a thirst for revival, resolved to bring Welsh whisky back from obscurity, much like the bards of old who sought to rekindle the flames of legend.
And so, from the misty valleys, Penderyn was born—a whisky distillery that would become Wales’s answer to Excalibur. They chose the tiny village of Penderyn, nestled at the foothills of the Brecon Beacons, where pure, untainted water springs from the earth as naturally as legend springs from Welsh lore. But water alone was not the magic ingredient in this tale; vision and innovation would prove just as crucial as the enchanted waters that flowed through the land.
Enter Dr. David Faraday, a descendant of the great Michael Faraday, the man who unraveled the mysteries of electromagnetism. Dr. Faraday brought his own alchemy to the distillery: a revolutionary copper single-pot still capable of producing whisky at an astonishing 92% purity. This was no ordinary still—it was a modern-day cauldron, transforming raw spirit into something refined, much like the ancient druids once sought to transmute base metals into gold. The resulting whisky was light, fruity, and distinctly Welsh, carrying the essence of the land and its people.
Still, skepticism loomed. The world wasn’t ready to believe in Welsh whisky. That was until a knight in whisky armour arrived—Dr. Jim Swan, a revered Master Distiller whose expertise transformed emerging distilleries into global forces. Like a master craftsman restoring a forgotten masterpiece, he recognized the purity of Penderyn’s spirit and recommended finishing it in Madeira casks, a decision that would become the signature of Penderyn’s style. Madeira, a wine cherished by explorers and poets alike, lent a complexity and depth to Penderyn’s whisky, as if whispering tales of adventure into each bottle.
From there, a symphony of maturation followed: sherry, peated, port—each cask adding new depth to the Welsh whisky identity. When Penderyn launched on St. David’s Day in 2004, it wasn’t just a bottle of whisky that was uncorked; it was the dawn of a new era. HRH Prince Charles himself bore witness as Welsh whisky reclaimed its place on the world stage, a phoenix rising from the embers of history. From the rolling hills of Wales, Penderyn soared, a golden thread now woven into the global whisky tapestry, its luster undeniable.
Penderyn Celt is one of the many expressions that showcase the distillery’s refined craftsmanship. Encased in a newly designed bottle, this single malt is finished in casks that once held peated whisky, imparting elegant wisps of smoke over a creamy vanilla and biscuity barley core. On the nose, fruit and peat intertwine in a delicate dance, reminiscent of sea mist swirling around the rugged Welsh coastline. The palate opens with a burst of sweetness before the smoky, slightly medicinal flavors take center stage, finishing long and malty with lingering notes of honey and fruit. It is a whisky that offers the complexity of an Islay malt but with a uniquely Welsh character, like a Celtic bard composing a familiar yet novel melody.
The Penderyn Madeira Finish, the distillery’s original expression, remains the beating heart of its range. Aged in ex-bourbon barrels and finished in ex-Madeira wine casks, it carries a golden hue reminiscent of Welsh sunlight filtering through ancient oak trees. On the nose, cream toffee, rich fruit, and raisins beckon like an inviting hearth on a stormy night.
The palate is crisp and finely rounded, balancing sweetness with an appetizing dryness, while the finish lingers with tropical fruit, vanilla, and a whisper of spice. It is an elegant introduction to the world of Penderyn, offering a balance of oaky vanilla tones and dry sweetness, much like the harmonious interplay of tradition and modernity.
Then there is Penderyn The Headliner, a whisky that pays tribute to David Lloyd George, Wales’s only Prime Minister and an accidental architect of the modern whisky industry. This expression, matured in Jamaican rum and Ruby Port casks, is a bold tribute to a man who redefined the laws of spirits, ensuring quality and integrity in every drop. The nose bursts with fresh cherries and summer berries, laced with creamy oatcakes, vanilla, and warming spices—a lively, multifaceted aroma as complex as Welsh history itself. The palate delivers fruitcake drizzled with caramel, offset by green oak and a kick of black pepper, a combination as spirited as the oratory of Lloyd George himself. The finish is dry yet abundant with sweet, lingering fruit, a lingering testament to resilience and reinvention.
From whispers in a pub to an internationally acclaimed distillery, Penderyn has carved a place in whisky’s grand narrative. It is no longer a lost art but a thriving legacy. What began as an ambitious dream has become Wales’s liquid gold, proving that sometimes, the best legends are the ones we bring back to life. In the grand halls of whisky’s history, where Scottish and Irish spirits have long held dominion, a new voice now sings—a Welsh voice, strong and clear.
And so, the dragon roars once more, its breath laced with the warm embrace of Welsh whisky, a reminder that legends, once reborn, burn brighter than ever.
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Words by AW.
Photos courtesy of Penderyn.