When Joseph Beuys encased himself in felt and staged an encounter with a coyote in 1974, it wasn’t just art—it was a spectacle of contrasts: the primal and the cerebral, the wild and the contained. Fast forward to today, and Rick Owens, the high priest of fashion subversion, takes this spirit of contradiction into his Moncler collaboration, transforming the functional puffed jacket into something bordering on mythic. Owens doesn't merely design; he orchestrates narratives, and this one is about survival, both literal and existential.
Sartorial Armor for the Everyday Odyssey
The Moncler x Rick Owens collection is not for the faint of heart—or the faint of style. These coats, with their exaggerated proportions and almost otherworldly silhouettes, blur the line between clothing and sculpture. They envelop the wearer, creating an air of impenetrability, as if declaring, “This is my world—enter if you dare.” A jacket is no longer just a jacket; it becomes a portable fortress, a tactile cocoon against the chaos of modern life.
And the garments are not merely protective but transformative. Each stitch and seam carries the DNA of Owens’ philosophy: clothes that challenge, provoke, and, ultimately, empower. Think of them as couture exoskeletons, perfect for braving the urban tundra or a metaphorical wilderness. It’s a dialogue between the organic and the industrial, the delicate folds of nylon clashing beautifully with the raw geometry of Owens’ vision.
A Refuge, a Rocket, a Monument
The collection isn’t confined to garments. Owens extends his design ethos to an installation—a stainless-steel mountain refuge that is as unsettling as it is alluring. This sculptural marvel, with its blend of brutalism and futurism, evokes thoughts of spacecraft, sanctuaries, or perhaps even tombs.
Lined with Moncler’s signature duvet material, the refuge is a physical manifestation of Owens’ duality: beauty laced with menace, glamour tinged with threat.
This structure isn’t just shelter; it’s a statement, an ode to the balance between utility and artistry. Owens taps into the architectural ingenuity of Charlotte Perriand and Jean Prouvé, giving us something that feels both profoundly modern and timelessly poetic. It challenges what it means to create a "home," even if that home is portable and slightly ominous.
Fashion Beyond Fabric
Owens’ work here, as always, elevates fashion into the realm of philosophy. These pieces aren’t just for keeping warm—they’re for sparking thought. The hyperbolic shapes and theatrical flair take a jab at fashion’s obsession with conformity, reminding us that even in the depths of practicality, there’s room for drama. They flirt with absurdity but remain grounded in their meticulous craftsmanship.
Drawing on inspiration as diverse as ceremonial Japanese robes and the wild grandeur of Onagadori roosters, Owens’ creations play with extremes. In his world, history isn’t a relic; it’s a reminder that what feels avant-garde now often pales in comparison to the extravagance of the past.
Wearable Art Meets Daily Survival
This collaboration is a marriage of Moncler’s technical mastery with Owens’ penchant for the provocative. The result? Garments that transform the mundane act of dressing for the weather into a performance. Whether striding through snow-covered streets or escaping into your inner sanctum, these designs speak of resilience, individuality, and the power to stand out.
Rick Owens has always been about more than clothes. In this venture with Moncler, he doesn’t just deliver jackets or sculptures; he delivers a challenge—to wrap oneself not just in fabric, but in the audacity to be utterly, unapologetically extraordinary.
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Words by AW.
Photo courtesy of Moncler.